A RIDE ACROSS THE PELOPOXXESE. 191 



increased. After a short halt at about three o'clock, 

 we crossed a very rocky ridge, and then came down 

 into the plain, at the further end of which stands 

 Tripoli, and where of old stood Mantinea and Tegea. 

 The sun was sinking as we drew near to the town ; 

 and we pulled up at the foot of a low ridge, which as 

 yet hid it from view, to wait for one of our party 

 who, with the haggage- horses and Nicholas, had 

 attempted a short cut into the plain, with the not 

 uncommon result of being left far behind by those 

 who had kept to the road. After waiting for some 

 time in vain, and failing, in the absence of an inter- 

 preter, to learn the cause of the delay from the 

 drivers who had overtaken us, we determined to 

 push on to Tripoli, and get a search-party sent out. 

 For something, we thought, must have gone wrong. 

 Either a band of brigands had been lurking in the 

 crags, or our friend had perhaps met with a fall, and 

 was so lying helpless. Five minutes' gallop brought 

 us into the main street of the town, quite full of men 

 walking about in handsome dresses, and little boys 

 shouting. Fair faces smiled upon us from windows 

 and balconies as we passed. A sunset glow touched 

 the red roofs of the houses, set in a background of 

 purple mountains. But our minds were far too un- 

 easy to appreciate the picturesque. As we rode 

 slowly along, little boys came round us, eager to 

 point out TO EevoSoxeiov the hotel. Gradually men 

 joined the throng ; and at last we stopped in the 



