JOURNEY FROM HEEAT TO ORENBURG. 217 



band is a light striped shawl, and the boots much 

 like those of the Horse Guards, but with pointed 

 toes. At Herat I always found, when conversing 

 with a native of the country who had never before 

 seen the European costume, that he was so absorbed 

 by astonishment at the difference of dress that he 

 could think of nothing else, and that instead 

 of listening to my arguments he was counting 

 my buttons. I have nearly 300 ducats tied round 

 my waist under my clothes ; and Brutus, Fazil Khan, 

 and two private servants are similarly loaded in 

 different amounts, making a total of 1500 ducats, or 

 about 900. Our party consists of thirty, and we 

 have thirty-five horses and mules. 



May 16th. Koosh Eobat Made a very pleasant 

 march yesterday of twelve and a half miles. The 

 road generally excellent and the weather delightful. 

 Crossed a pretty little stream, where are the remains 

 of an old bridge. The Koosh is a small stream ; the 

 caravanserai here is magnificent, large enough to 

 quarter a brigade of infantry; the roof is still in 

 good order ; I could not get any tradition concerning 

 it. About half-way we passed a reservoir of water. 

 These buildings prove the wealth and generosity of 

 former kings, who little thought that their works 

 would last longer than their own fames. 



Mai/ 17th. Killa-i-Juppat, forty-five and a half 

 miles. I am ashamed to say quite knocked up. I 

 rode an Arab horse, who could not walk with the 



