A KEINDEER EIDE THROUGH LAPLAND. 25 



tirely changed its aspect, and we were now in the 

 midst of a well-wooded tract, which was a welcome 

 change after the desert we had just passed through. 

 Shortly before arriving at the station I felt a curious 

 numb sensation on my chin, and on mentioning this, 

 it was found, after examination, to be frost-bitten. 

 Though but slight it was very disagreeable, itching 

 fearfully the whole night. I am informed and I 

 up till now experience the truth of the statement 

 that the effects will continue for many years, 

 especially showing themselves during every extreme 

 of heat or cold. Half an hour after our arrival, the 

 Lapp who had set out from Malasjok on snow-shoes 

 along with us, arrived, seemingly not at all fatigued by 

 his thirty-mile walk. 



Eavna-stuen, the station, was kept by a poor 

 widow, with a large young family, and only 200 

 kroners, about 11, a-year of salary. She did not 

 possess that virtue of virtues cleanliness ; in fact, 

 the dirt and squalor of her family and her house 

 were such that we could not bring ourselves to allow 

 her to cook anything for us : and so we contented 

 ourselves with our tinned foods and a steaming glass 

 of the " cratur." The warmth within effectually kept 

 away the cold without, though that was not insigni- 

 ficant, for that evening there was 30| Eeaumur of 

 frost, equal to from 34 to 36 below the zero of 

 Fahrenheit ; but a few degrees more and the mercury 

 in the glass would have been frozen. 



