A REINDEER EIDE THROUGH LAPLAND. 33 



clays, and as poaching now is. The ingenuity ex- 

 pended in the abduction of a deer is often worthy of 

 a better cause, and sometimes borders on the incredible. 

 The quantity of reindeer owned in Karasjok amounts 

 to about 20,000 ; and in Kautokino about 30,000 is 

 the figure given. Not many years ago the number 

 was nearly double. One old apoplectic toper in 

 Karasjok owned at least 5000 deer, which represents 

 a capital of over 2000 sterling ; yet there seemed 

 to be but little attention paid to him " toadyism " 

 having probably not yet found its way into these 

 regions. 



It seemed at first strange to us that several of the 

 natives could speak a little English, but I found out 

 that these had been in London in 1870. These 

 English-speakers were for ever bothering me to give 

 them something or other ; the art of begging evidently 

 having been taught them all too well in the London 

 " Zoo " where they had been exhibited. 



The present church in Karasjok was erected in 

 1807 ; but even before 1750 a church had existed in 

 the place. It is seated for about 200 persons, and is 

 even pretty inside. The best seats are railed off from 

 the body of the church, and are reserved for the Norsk 

 portion of the congregation, while the poor Lapps must 

 worship at a respectful distance. 



On the second day of our stay in Karasjok I started, 

 in company with my wapoos, to visit a reindeer by or 

 town, situated about five or six miles from Karasjok. 



VOL. III. C 



