THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW OF DEATH. 75 



Pangay there is a large good bungalow ; and the 

 Hindusthan and Tibet road there comes to an end, 

 so far as it is a cut road, or, indeed, a path on 

 which labour of any kind is expended. It is en- 

 tirely protected by the Kailas from the Indian 

 monsoon ; and I found a portion of it occupied by 

 Captain and Mrs Henderson, who wisely preferred 

 a stay there to one in. the more exposed and un- 

 healthy hill stations, though it was so far from so- 

 ciety, and from most of the comforts of life. The 

 easiest way from Pangay to Lippe is over the 

 "Werung Pass, 12,400 feet; but Captain Hender- 

 son, on his returning from a shooting excursion, re- 

 ported so much snow upon it that I determined to go 

 up the valley of the Sutlej, winding along the sides 

 of the steep but still pine-covered mountains on its 

 right bank. So, on the 28th June, after a delay of a 

 few days in order to recruit and prepare, I bade adieu 

 to civilisation, as represented in the persons of the 

 kind occupants of the bungalow at Pangay, and fairly 

 started for tent-life. A very short experience of the 

 " road " was sufficient to stagger one, and to make me 

 cease to wonder at the retreat of two young cavalry 

 officers I met, a few days before, on their way back to 

 Simla, and who had started from Pangay with some 

 intention of going to Shipki, but gave up the attempt 

 after two miles' experience of the hard road they would 

 have to travel. The great Hindusthan and Tibet 

 affair was bad enough, but what was this I had come 



