158 TEAVEL, ADVENTUEE, AXD SPOET. 



were for the most part covered with thatch, although 

 here and there a roof formed of black and red tiles, 

 arranged in alternate lines, varied the uniformity of 

 the layers of straw, to which the weather and the 

 smoke of the wood fires had imparted a dingy greyish 

 hue. According to Spanish custom, every dwelling 

 had a clumsy "but solid and spacious balcony running 

 round the upper windows. These balconies were 

 sheltered from the rain either by a wooden roof or by 

 a projection of the thatch and rafters, and in the sum- 

 mer and autumn were usually strewed with the golden 

 pods of the Indian corn and the juicy scarlet fruit of 

 the tomato, placed there to dry and to ripen in the 

 sunbeams. 



The inhabitants of Ayllon were principally peas- 

 ants, who gained their living by the cultivation of the 

 fields which surrounded the town ; and in time of 

 peace this resource was sufficient for the ample supply 

 of their scanty wants and unambitious desires ; but 

 the war, which was so heavy a scourge for the Pen- 

 insula, did not spare this quiet corner of Castile. On 

 the contrary, the position of the town rendered it a 

 favourite resort of the guerillas, who from that point 

 had the double facility of pouncing on whatever 

 passed along the highroad, and of retreating to the 

 mountains when troops were sent against them. Thus 

 it not unfrequently happened that the unfortunate 

 Ayllonese, after emptying their granaries and wine- 

 stores for the benefit of the Spanish troops, were 



