A CRUISE UP THE YANGSTZE IN 1858-59. 219 



cold that all the sheepskins in Ngan-king could not 

 keep you warm ; and as to the river and the winds, 

 he did not know [which was the worst." Having 

 given vent to his opinion, our pilot left us to our own 

 devices, and descended into the stoke-hole to enjoy 

 the society of the stokers, their tobacco being much 

 more powerful than the Manillas with which we con- 

 ciliated our Palinurus. He was no false prophet, for 

 down came an easterly gale upon us, loaded with red 

 brick-dust, which gave the whole atmosphere a dense 

 fiery appearance, a;3 singular as it was unpleasant for 

 those who had to find their way in such a tornado. 

 However, the " dear little gunboats " were chirruping 

 along ; the gallant Bythesea, under double-reefed top- 

 sails, looked as if he and his pretty Cruiser were about 

 to run for the Derby, and the Furious was not going 

 to stop for any fresh-water gale ; so away we went 

 before the storm like so many sea-gulls. There was 

 decidedly no use in stopping so long as the wind was 

 fair and the water deep ; and Dame Fortune smiled 

 upon us, although there was some anxiety lest, if the 

 leading vessel got aground, all the rest would tumble 

 upon her before they were able to stop their way. 

 However, we kept a fine depth of water, and made 

 splendid progress from 8 A.M. until 2 P.M., when a 

 difficulty obliged us to anchor a short stage from the 

 Poyang Lake. At one moment during the day things 

 did look a little ugly, and that was at about eleven 

 o'clock of the forenoon, when, after staggering down 



