AMONG THE AFFGHANS. 281 



of 12,000 feet the pines lessened, and at length 

 ceased. Juniper-bushes crawling over the slopes 

 were met up to nearly 14,000 feet, and then nought 

 "but snow ahead. Just before reaching the snow the 

 ground was carpeted with crocus, polyanthus, and 

 many other beautiful flowers. Evening was already 

 drawing on, and we determined to descend to the 

 bed of the stream again, where its height was 11,000 

 feet. When we reached it, huge rocky precipices 

 rose above us many thousand feet ; near the base 

 on one side was a large cave capable of holding some 

 forty or fifty men, approachable only from below. 

 In this we would be safe from stray shots, in a good 

 defensible position, and protected from the breeze. 

 So we decided to make it our halting-place for the 

 night. In comparative security we revelled in the 

 warmth of a huge fire, and after dinner spent a jolly 

 evening. One of our party was the bard of a section 

 of the Khugiani, who had brought his sitara (guitar) 

 with him ; and after we had served out some ginger- 

 wine to those who cared for it, and drank it though 

 they refused the more potent and well-known " brandy 

 sharab " that I was only too pleased to keep for my- 

 self the bard gave us a few songs. At length one 

 more exciting than the rest stirred the blood of our 

 escort, and soon a circle formed round the fire, and 

 went through a lively sword-dance, with the unusual 

 accompaniment of more than one song. First the 

 usual nasal sing-song ; then a laughable mock-heroic ; 



