ASCENT OF MONT BLANC. 11 



old book, ' The Peasants of Chamouni ' who was 

 reported to have a wonderful and valuable weather- 

 guide, the like of which had never been seen before 

 in the valley, called Le Menteur by the neighbours, 

 because it always foretold the reverse of what would 

 happen. This turned out to be one of the little 

 Dutch houses, with the meteorological lady and 

 gentlemen occupiers. The lady, in her summer 

 costume, was most provokingly abroad, and the worst 

 fears were entertained. Whilst, however, we were at 

 dinner that day, all the fog rolled away clean out of 

 the valley as if by magic. The mists rose up the 

 aiguilles like the flocks of steam from a valley rail- 

 way ; the sun broke out, and M. Tairraz cried out 

 from the top of the table " Voila le beau temps qui 

 vient : vous faites une belle ascension, Messieurs : et 

 clemain." 



We thought no more of dinner that day : all was 

 now hurry and preparation. At every stove in the 

 kitchen, fowls, and legs and shoulders of mutton, 

 were turning. The guides were beating up the 

 porters, who were to carry the heavier baggage as far 

 as the edge of the glacier ; the peasants were solicit- 

 ing us to be allowed to join the party as volunteers ; 

 and the inhabitants of the village generally had col- 

 lected in the small open space between the church 

 and the Hotel de 1' Union, and were talking over the 

 chances of the excursion for the mere report of an 

 attempt puts them all in a bustle. We walked about 



