98 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. 



is a poor ignorant stranger who cannot speak a word 

 of intelligible language. It is kind, and gratifying 

 to self-esteem, to receive such an one, and show him 

 those good things that shall make him sigh to return 

 to his own forlorn fatherland. Besides all this, the 

 outward modifications affecting the European Turk 

 spoil his nationality. The reforms of Mahmoud 

 and of Abdul Medjid have wofully cut up the ap- 

 pearance of their subjects ; and of course sumptu- 

 ary changes such as these affect especially those who 

 mix with the world, and are near court. Who can 

 believe in the ill-looking fellow with smooth face, 

 regular built boots, and tight frock-coat, buttoned up 

 to the chin, to say nothing of the wretched red 

 cap he wears instead of a turban ? That a Turk ! 

 pshaw ! 



When I landed at that nest of pirates, Yalona, 

 what time we bore a message to the respectable in- 

 habitants, that unless they took a little more pains 

 to grow honest, we should be under certain painful 

 necessities with respect to them, was I to look 

 upon that wretched rabble as Turks ? Men dressed 

 in every variety of shabby frock-coat and trousers ; 

 and above all, men who were undisguised in the 

 exhibition of vulgar curiosity. What amount of 

 excitement would it take to make a genuine Turk 

 open the eyes of astonishment 1 or, should he even 

 be betrayed into an unguarded Mashhallah ! has the 

 power of morbid attraction been discovered which 



