102 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. 



plague-compromising touch. And then when we re- 

 turned hungry as hunters from our march, full of ready 

 forgiveness for any faults of cookery, what a banquet 

 was that which consular hospitality had prepared ! 

 Oh the jocosity of that breakfast, which was in the 

 open air, because we could not go into the house, 

 where we could take nothing from, and could give 

 nothing to, the ladies, but had to keep them at most 

 respectful distance, and be civil under the control 

 of a vigilant guardiano. 



There is no mode of travelling which can possibly 

 be compared to this boat-work. The scope of such 

 proceeding is certainly, by comparison, confined ; but 

 so far as it goes, nothing is to be mentioned in the 

 same day with it that is, so far as comfort is con- 

 cerned. Places even inland may be visited in this 

 way, for almost anywhere a horse or two can be mus- 

 tered, and the craft left in charge of her crew. What 

 a difference between turning into your own berth at 

 night, and affording the amusement one does on shore 

 to the Hellenic vermin. One good joke in this way 

 happened to me once upon a time, showing what 

 quarters travellers may stumble upon even with the 

 best recommendations. A large party of us had 

 started, particularly recommended by letter from the 

 consular agent of a place that shall be nameless, to 

 no less a person than the Demarch of a high-sounding 

 Greek town, who was to do everything for us in the 

 way of billeting. By great exertion, and with aching 



