A RIDE TO MAGNESIA. 109 



in some Greek house. The question of ways and 

 means remained. The ordinary mode of conducting 

 these proceedings is through the ministry of a kawash 

 or guide a person whose assistance is generally con- 

 sidered indispensable in a country where one neither 

 knows the roads, nor can exchange a word of inquiry 

 with the people. But this plan was little suited to 

 our taste, as we knew by experience that these men 

 are apt to assume the absolute control of their parties. 

 In this respect they are no worse than the rest of the 

 whole tribe of ciceroni, who assuredly are among the 

 greatest bores that necessity imposes. If they would 

 confine themselves to leading the way and interpret- 

 ing, and rest contented with solicitude for the horses, 



they would be visef ul and endurable. S forewent 



for a moment his amber mouthpiece to give us his 

 experience and opinion. 



" These kawashes are greater plagues on a journey 

 than a pebble in the shoe. When I was a youngster 

 on board the Blanche, we started, a party of us, for 

 Aidin, under convoy of one of them with a first-rate 

 character. We had hardly got clear of the town 

 when he began to take command of us, coolly want- 

 ing to regulate our pace. We stood no nonsense, 

 but set off full cry, with him at our heels shouting 

 like mad. He was presently up with me, and caught 

 my horse's bridle, uttering all sorts of unintelligible 

 exclamations. The fellow drew his yataghan, and I 

 really thought was going to cut my head off. How- 



