A RIDE TO MAGNESIA. 113 



policy, to make his presence and aid indispensable. 

 By dint of great practice I acquired a pretty accurate 

 imitation of this sound, and have practised it suc- 

 cessfully. But the animals were quick to discover the 

 imposture, and to punish it by extra impassibility. 



Many of the best khwis or caravansaries are of 

 royal foundation ; others, like the fountains, the 

 monuments of departed piety. But much as we 

 might admire the institution, we could not feel very 

 ambitious of occupying a billet of so very gregarious 

 and inexclusive a character. Besides, in these Tthans 

 you must provide for yourself all that you require in 

 the shape of provisions ; and it was too much of a 

 good thing to carry with us tea and bread and butter. 

 "\Ve clung to the hope of finding lodging in the shade 

 of domestic hospitality, the rather because of our re- 

 commendation to the consular agent. A second string 

 Avas added to our bow by a worthy Armenian of 

 Smyrna. He kindly assisted our intention by a letter 

 to a compatriot of his at Magnesia, of whom the 

 least that we could expect was, that he would receive 

 us to the fellowship of trencher and hearth that 

 is, should we present our introduction, for, in the 

 first instance, our purpose was to seek the man of 

 office. 



"We had some debate concerning the propriety of 

 our going ostensibly armed no doubt, however, 

 concerning the advisability of our actually being 

 armed. In those desolate tracts, where you may 



VOL. IV. H 



