A RIDE TO MAGNESIA. 115 



halted for the night at a guard-house. The spot was 

 of the rarest beauty the evening such as breathes 

 only in Ionia ; cities and men were removed out of 

 sight and thought ; and full of poetry and peace 

 the pleasing sadness we had caught on the hallowed 

 ground of the mighty Ephesus we resigned ourselves 

 to the influence of the moment. What was that 

 sound of revelry that broke upon the stillness 1 The 

 mandolin tinkled voices were heard in chorus. We 

 got up to explore, and found, to our consternation, 

 that the guards of our station, having received a visit 

 from their brethren of the next detachment, were 

 holding festival on the occasion. We had previously 

 been informed that the Agah was absent on duty, and 

 had left the command to his ancient and this we 

 were ready to suppose was not calculated to tighten 

 the reins of discipline. Drinking and jollity were 

 such natural associates, that we feared terribly these 

 men would be getting at spirits and then what did 

 we not fear for the fair companions of our adventure 1 

 However, to make a long story short, the men did 

 not get drunk, and separated peacefully after the per- 

 formance of many terpsichorean novelties. But they 

 taught the careless to feel that travellers in such a 

 country should not be without the means of defence. 

 It is quite true that arms may do you a bad turn, 

 either by tempting you to a hasty display, or by 

 being of so costly a character as to excite the cupidity 

 of some ruffian. But it is just as true that any other 



