A RIDE TO MAGNESIA. 117 



It is a noble climate where you can start of a fine 

 morning, with a certainty that the weather will con- 

 tinue and fulfil its promise. One starts light, without 

 any wrappings, or any thing more than he has on. 

 One tescJtare, or passport, was our luggage for three. 

 Our first little adventure was about this same tes- 

 chare. It is to be got, as are all things in this land, 

 only through the medium of interpreters and kawashs. 

 A first-rate bore it is to be in all matters of business 

 subjected to the ministration of these gentry : and 

 what a pity it is that some steady Englishmen will 

 not qualify themselves to fulfil their functions. But 

 from the most important diplomatic negotiations down 

 to the most trivial matter of convenience, procedure 

 can only be had through such agency ; at least almost 

 without exception at present, whatever revolutions 

 may lurk in the recent studies of the attaches at 

 Constantinople. 



Mahmoud, the Janissary by the way, it is odd that 

 they should call this consular body-guard of one by 

 such a name brought us the document, and then, 

 of course, stood by to pocket his bacJcsJitsh. We were 

 then making our final preparations for the start, laying 

 in a little personal provender at the restaurant in 

 Frank Street, at the door of which stood our animals, 

 saddled and impatient. 



" Give him his tip," we said to S , who had 



been installed paymaster for the nonce. 



A smile and a coin were forthwith presented to the 



