A RIDE TO MAGXESIA. 119 



from the ground, so that an unbending horseman 

 passing under, would infallibly knock his head against 

 the corner of one of their first-floors. But chiefly on 

 donkeys is this risk noticeable the stubborn brutes 

 which it is much the fashion to ride, and whom none 

 but the drivers can guide. On entering Smyrna by 

 night those dull streets where gas is not your only 

 plan is to keep well in the middle of the street, right 

 in the hollow. It is a beautiful quarter of the town, 

 in itself picturesque and variegated in colour, and 

 beset with the fairest embellishments. Look up at 

 that lattice for a moment only, and then prick your 

 way again. Did you see those lustrous eyes and 

 graceful head-dress 1 The sun is now high, and these 

 stars twinkle but from lattices. Pass this way at 

 even, and you shall see them congregated in bril- 

 liancy. They are not of the retiring nature that 

 shuns observation. They sit congregated round every 

 door wooing the breeze. Supper is spread in the 

 spacious halls, beyond which the open doors give to 

 view a perspective of garden, ^ay, you may stop 

 and stare the men are occupied with their pipes, 

 and the women are not offended at admiration. 



Eight interesting are these Armenians, of whom 

 the men have all the riches, and the women all the 

 beauty (at least unveiled and cognisable) of Turkey. 

 They have lost all trace of the active spirit that in an 

 age of iron kept them busy in the melee of nations. 

 Their gravest senior would stare unintelligent were 



