134 TKAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. 



their very pipes, if smoking were attainable only on 

 condition of filling and lighting for one's self. 



Now let me say that a wayfarer's trouble is not 

 always over when he has arrived at the city of his 

 destination. I should like to put any one who thinks 

 it is outside of one or two places that I know, and 

 tell him to find his way in. Le grand capitaine 

 thanked the garrison of Malta for having had the 

 kindness not only to capitulate, but to open the gates 

 for him, as otherwise he did not see how he should 

 ever have got in. And so I opine, there be places 

 where a capitulation would be incomplete without 

 the attendance of one of the indigenous to act as 

 pilot. I am afraid that I might have taken this 

 journey in vain, and sighed in exclusion, had I been 

 left to my own devices for the effecting of an entry. 

 The river surrounds, in great part, the walls; and 

 one might make pretty well the entire circuit before 

 hitting the right point of ingress. But one of us was 

 gifted with topographical instinct in high degree, and 

 at once nosed the course that was to lead us to the 

 bridge. Our poor brutes seemed to sympathise in 

 the refreshment of our spirits ; and even my unfortu- 

 nate Eosinante consented to his burden, and put his 

 best foot foremost. One of his feet, alas ! was what 

 maritime gentlemen would call a regular worser the 

 foot which lacked a shoe, and which, defenceless, had 

 to sustain such rude battering. The hoof of this foot 

 was cracked, and I was in much tribulation, both on 



