A RIDE TO MAGNESIA. 155 



better in a story than in manducation, being exces- 

 sively greasy compositions of odd pieces of meat stuck 

 on skeAvers a poor imitation of the sausage. "We 

 found the town rising in our estimation as we viewed 

 it by daylight. The bazaar does not, of course, afford 

 such a display of rich merchandise as is to be found 

 in that of Smyrna. There is no show of costly car- 

 pets and silks from Brousa and Damascus. But the 

 town, quoad town, is decidedly superior to the Asiatic 

 metropolis. The streets are wider, the buildings more 

 substantial, the vagabonds not so many. All looks 

 clean and respectable. Here is no bustle of commerce, 

 no appearance of social fermentation. All has the 

 quiet and settled air of a place where the inhabitants 

 have made their fortunes, and retire to enjpy them- 

 selves. Seclusion and blissful ignorance have pre- 

 served them from the crotchets of reformers, and 

 continued to them the benefits of a wholesome 

 despotism. 



But a sound burst upon our ears which made us 

 start. A gush of music as from a full military band 

 was borne upon the air; and in good tune and 

 measure, moreover, did it sound. We knew that 

 we were in a country accustomed to raise any given 

 number of soldiers at short notice but irregulars, 

 wont to be disbanded on the termination of their 

 special service. But the case turned out to be that 

 Magnesia was a grand cavalry depot. "We followed 

 the sound and came up with the regiment, returning 



