LIFE IN CENTRAL ASIA. 269 



banks of the royal Indus), we find the bungalows of 

 Europeans open to receive us, active English magis- 

 trates superintending public works, or administering 

 justice in their cutcheries, companies of European 

 artillery and Sepoy regiments, with young beardless 

 English officers, drilling in the cool of the morning. 

 Everywhere our white faces command respect from 

 the natives of the country, and our impedimenta are 

 in no danger of being taxed or taken by roving chiefs. 

 Very different is the behaviour of the Sindians to us, 

 from what it was in 1613 to Sir Eobert Shirley, a 

 British ambassador to Persia, who was detained at 

 the mouth of the Indus, saw Mr Ward, one of his 

 companions, shot dead before his face, and experienced 

 the greatest difficulty in escaping to Agra, where he 

 was courteously received by Jehangir. Even in 1801 

 the English mission to the Ameers was subjected to 

 many annoyances and insults. But all that is changed 

 now ; for we are the SaMb Log the ruling people, 

 the masters of the hour, masters of the destinies of 

 India and of Sind. Even the erewhile Beluch chief 

 who fought against Sir Charles Xapier on the fields 

 of Meeanee and Hyderabad, humbly makes to us his 

 salaam. 



On the other hand, again, when we have approached 

 the Hala, or passed through them into the country be- 

 yond, it is very necessary to wrap ourselves in the 

 cloak of prudence. Xo white faces meet our eye, but 

 only swarthy Beluches, brown Brahuis, and travel- 



