LIFE IX CENTRAL ASIA. 277 



able numbers ; as also merchants and contractors 

 from the Punjab. It is even recorded that a French- 

 man once made his appearance in the cantonment, 

 but found no one who could speak with him except 

 Mr Frere, the able and accomplished commissioner 

 in, or governor of, the province ; and in our day a 

 veritable Tubingen Ph.D. was there, with whom we 

 might presumptuously dispute on questions of phil- 

 ology, but with whom we could always become one 

 again over longing recollection of the EberliardkarU- 

 Universitat. 



Living at Kurrachee, a sort of Central Asiatic fever 

 is apt to seize upon the mind. Every evening we 

 gazed on the line of savage, habitationless, precipitous 

 mountains standing so distinct against the clear calm 

 sky, until the desire to pass beyond them became a 

 passion which compelled "the power to roam." Each 

 morning the strong sunlight fell into every rugged 

 pass and jagged cleft; and even through the wavy 

 heats of the day, between the circling sand-storms, 

 there were seen, dimly looming, those great frontiers 

 of the forbidden land. Singular feelings were aroused 

 by the thought that it was possible to set off any day 

 from our door, and walk or ride on to Tartary, or 

 almost to the Pole, with scarcely any interruption 

 from the dwellings of men. When the caffilalis 

 began to start on their return journey northwards or 

 westwards, it seemed easy to accompany, for a short 

 distance, the gaunt camels, which moved slowly, and 



