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Several conditions are necessary in order to favour the union 

 of the bud and the stock. The seeds must be well developed and 

 matured. The figure illustrating the kind of buds to select is 

 taken from Mr. B. M. Lelong's paper on budding, published by the 

 State Board of Horticulture of California. 



The bark must raise freely from the stock, and the more 

 luxuriant the growth of these the more active the flow of sap. 



The time for budding varies greatly according to trees ; thus 

 peaches, almonds, and cherries ripen their buds early, and may be 

 budded in the early summer ; if budded later in the autumn, they 

 remain dormant through the winter. Apples and pears, which are 

 slower of growth, are generally budded later in the summer and lie 

 dormant until next spring. Citrus trees are budded all through 

 the summer, and whenever the sap is running more actively and 

 young shoots sprouting readily. Plump buds from healthy young 

 round wood are preferable to those taken from angular wood. 



Immature buds remain dormant in the stock until they have 

 developed, sometimes until late in the summer, or even until next 

 spring. 



In order to hasten the development of young buds, the tips of 

 the branches it is intended to use are sometimes nipped off ; the 

 shoots are thus made to harden, and the buds are taken when they 

 just begin to start growing again. 



BUDDING MATERIAL 



consist of a pruning knife to cut the scion bevel shape 

 (such a knife is illustrated in the chapters on grafting and on 



Budding Knife. 



pruning), and a budding knife, which has a sharp round blade and 

 a flat handle to raise the back of the stock. In budding sharp 

 tools are to a great extent the secret of success. 



Wrapping material is also required and consists of rafia fibre, 

 cotton cord, yarn, or strips of waxed cloth. These are made of 

 cheese cloth or coarse calico folded into convenient sizes and 

 dipped into molten beeswax and resin, two parts of the former to 

 one of resin. The surplus wax is then scraped off by pulling the 

 calico between a stick and the edge of the melting pot. The waxed 

 calico is then spread to cool and then torn into strips of the desired 

 size, generally j-inch to ^-inch wide, and about 12 inches long when 

 required for use. 



These waxed strips hold the buds firm, prevent them from 

 drying, and keep out moisture. One disadvantage they have, is to 

 make the fingers more or less sticky, which is a decided objection 

 when a great number of buds have to be inserted. 



