156 



Apricot branch 

 before pruning-. 



PRUNING THE APRICOT. 



The fruiting habit of the apricot is much like that of the plum, 

 and the same method of shortening-in is adopted in this instance. 

 It moreover, like the plum, bears fruit spurs on 

 older woods ; these bear for several years, and being 

 provided with leaf buds at the base, can be renewed 

 by cutting back when they grow feeble. 



The apricot is a spreading and rank grower, 

 which, unless kept well within bounds, runs long 

 branches, which are liable to split asunder in windy 

 weather, when laden with fruit. For that reason 

 no two shoots should come from one bud, or be 

 directly opposite. 



Pruning to inner buds is greatly to be recom- 

 mended when shaping the tree, while summer 

 pruning is frequently resorted to just after the crop 

 has been gathered, so as to promote the formation 

 of fruit buds at the base of the twigs, and minimise 

 the risk of gumming, the wounds healing at that 

 time rapidly. When large limbs have to be sup- 

 pressed, they should be well trimmed and coated 

 over with white lead, gum-shellac varnish, clay or 

 other covering, otherwise there is danger of the 

 branch dying back and killing or injuring the tree. 



Unruly branches are better tied up with short string till they 

 naturally grow in the position they are meant to occupy. During 

 the first two or three years the trees need to be gone over two or 

 three times during spring and early autumn to remove suckers 

 and lateral growths that may start 011 the lower side of the limbs, 

 which, if left, would check the growth of the permanent limbs above 

 and the formation of fruit spurs. Many successful growers prune 

 their full-grown apricot trees, if found to be shy bearers, soon 

 after the fruit is picked, in the early autumn preferably after a 

 shower of rain (March in Western Australia) though not too 

 heavily, unless the tree is weakened by over- bearing. This develops 

 the buds for the next year. This operation is only recommended 

 after the trees have reached the bearing age. While the tree is 

 still young and being shaped, all the pruning should be done in the 

 winter. If the season is dry a good watering should be given to 

 the trees after the summer pruning. 



The management of the fruit branches is much the same as in 

 the case of the cherry ; unless the shoot is cut back, the basal bud 

 will remain dormant, as shown in the following illustration of an 

 unpruned branch, and the terminal shoot will grow, lengthening 

 the branch which, long and lanky, will ultimately bend, and, unless 

 propped up, break down under the load of fruit. It is, therefore, 

 advisable to cut the young shoot at A (fig. i.). The sap will thus be 

 forced towards the base, and produce new fruit branches (A, fig. 2). 



