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upwards at an angle of about 45, and tied to a second wire (the top 

 one being reserved for the young shoots as they come out), or bent 

 round and tied to the main branch of the vine. In forming such a 

 vine care must be taken not to establish it too rapidly, but to only 

 add, say, one arm bearing fruit-rod and spur each year until it 

 has attained its full size ; in this way a vigorous long-lived vine may- 

 be obtained with a stout stem, which will be capable of yielding 

 enormous crops for a considerable number of years. 



These are the principal systems of training vines. There are many 

 others chiefly variations of these which, although interesting, are 

 not of sufficient practical importance to deserve a detailed description 

 in an elementary work. 



Once the above methods are thoroughly mastered, all other methods 

 will be easily learned. Amongst the most important are the 

 Chaintres System, consisting of a rather ramified stem bearing 

 spurs and fruit-rods, which are propped on small forks driven 

 into the ground. When it is desired to cultivate, the whole vine 

 is thrown bodily over into the next row, the forks withdrawn, 

 and the ground tilled; the forks are then replaced, and the vine 

 thrown back upon them. The same thing is done to the next row, 

 and so on till the block is cultivated. Although this system gives 

 very heavy crops of light wine, and the shelter of the leaves, which 

 entirely cover the ground, keeps the latter cool in a dry district, it is 

 very doubtful if the system would give good results in Australia, on 

 account of the extra labour rendered necessary. 



Another system is training the vines on overhead trellises this is 

 very suitable for such sorts as the Zante Currant and others requiring 

 great extension. It is established on the same lines as the other 

 systems, and only requires notice " en passant" The overhead part 

 should be sufficiently high to enable a horse to pass underneath with 

 the plough. Other systems, such as training vines on living or dead 

 trees, are not practical, and therefore not to be recommended, especially 

 the former. 



Time for Pruning. Vines must never be pruned before the wood 

 of the year is ripe that is when it has lost its green herbaceous 

 appearance, and assumed its ordinary brown or grey winter state; 

 once this has occurred, it is safe to prune. This change is marked by 

 the cessation of bleeding or flowing of sap when a shoot is cut. It 



