TWO DIANAS IN SOMALI LAND 37 



from an engine. The front camel decided he would 

 rest and meditate awhile, so sat down. He had to be 

 taught the error of such ways, and in a volley of furious 

 undertones from his driver be persuaded to rise. 



We passed numerous camels grazing, or trying to, in 

 charge of poor looking, half-fed Somali youths. There 

 is no grazing very near into Berbera, very little outside 

 either unless the animals are taken far afield. Here 

 they were simply spending their energy on trying to 

 pick a bit from an attenuated burnt-up patch of grass 

 that would have been starvation to the average 

 rabbit. 



The camel men in charge came over to exchange 

 salaams with ours, and proffer camels' milk, in the 

 filthiest of hams, to the " sahibs." We couldn't help 

 laughing. But for our hair we looked undersized 

 sahibs all right, I suppose, but we couldn't face the 

 milk. It would have been almost as disagreeable as 

 that bilge water tea. 



We each rode one of our expensive steeds, and I had 

 certainly never ridden worse. I called mine " Sceptre," 

 and " Sceptre " would not answer to the rein at all. I 

 think his jaw was paralysed. He would play follow 

 the leader, so I rode behind Cecily. 



The cook of cooks made us some tea, but I don't 

 think the kettle had boiled. Cecily said perhaps it 

 wasn't meant to in Somaliland. I asked her to see 

 that we set the fashion. 



We rested during the hottest hours, and then trekked 

 again for a little in the evening. There was no need 

 to form a thorn zareba the first night out, as we were 



