CHAPTEK II. 



BOMBAY. 



Duty on Outfit. — A Model (!) Consul. — The Servant Question. — The Grand 

 Market. — Flowers. —Fruit. — Fish. — Live Birds. — The First Specimen. — 

 Street Cars. — An Interesting Crowd. — Vehicles. — The Bullock Hackery. 

 — The Homeliest Animal Alive. — The Victoria and Albert Museum. — Soft- 

 hearted Hindoos. — The Hospital for Animals. — A Strange Sight.- -A Good 

 Servant. — Departure for Allahabad. 



And now we have come to India, the land of princes and paupers, 

 of creeds and castes, of savage men and still more savage beasts. 

 The sun rose upon what was, to me, a new world, full of strange 

 sights, and sounds, and people. We were at anchor in the middle 

 of a bay several miles long, on one side of which lay the flat city, 

 stretching far along the shore ; in the distant east the sun was just 

 rising above the high brown hills of the Western Ghauts, while to 

 the south lay a perfect archipelago of mountainous islands, large 

 and small. A single look over the ship's side into the murky water, 

 told me that I need not expect to find any shells, corals, or star- 

 fishes at Bombay, for they do not live upon a muddy bottom. 



The bay was fairly alive with small native boats, in one of which 

 I immediately went ashore to look for suitable lodgings. Almost in 

 the shadow of Watson's Hotel, a splendid iron structure of five 

 stories, the finest hotel between Cairo and San Francisco, I found 

 Doughtey's Hotel, a little nest of a place that would hardly have 

 made a kitchen for Watson's ; but I found in it what no one can in 

 a big, stylish hotel— freedom, the privilege of taking " mine ease in 

 mine inn." 



When I went to the steamer to bring away my baggage, I found 

 that the custom-house officers had swooped down upon us and 

 that ten per cent, duty was demanded on most of my outfit. Feel- 

 ing that I was, in every sense, a traveller, merely passing through 

 India with all my personal efi"ects, and that my belongings were 

 designed for scientific work, I thought that a proper representa- 



