275 



Greyhound Breeding. 



The rearing of greyhounds is quite as much an art as the rearing of 

 thoroughbreds. There are two things that must be constantly kept in view 

 — viz., size and qualit3\ In breeding greyhounds it is useless to expect 

 satisfactory results without these qualities, though exceptional instances 

 occasionally occur. Short, undersized dogs rarely distinguish themselves, 

 and a really good strain of blood will invariably be found in all our great 

 and consistent performers. To obtain the first there are many things that 

 help. There is size in the dam, the number of the litter, and the way in 

 which they are reared until they are six months old. I much prefer to breed 

 from a bitch of at least 55lbs. weight — she generally carries her puppies 

 better — although a small bitch from a big stock often throws large whelps, 

 but then there are generally several small ones as well among them. A litter 

 over seven rarely proves a large-sized lot, and to prevent a greater number 

 it is best to cross young bitches with old dogs, and vice versa. 



It is perfectly useless to breed from unhealthy bitches, as their whelps are 

 always very delicate, and liable to distemper, yellows, etc. Greyhound 

 bitches that have been run hard, and have had much training, however good, 

 seldom produce their equals, and this may be attributed to their constitu- 

 tions having been undermined. It stands to reason that a bitch worked hard 

 and fed lightly during the winter, then allowed to have her fill and lie about 

 all the summer when not in training, must injure her liver, etc., which I am 

 positive she transmits to her progeny. Coarse and badly-cooked food also 

 helps the mischief, with the result that worms are transmitted to the whelps. 

 It seems as if few people take the trouble to physic their kennel now and 

 again, and thus drive out these fearful scourges to the dog. Half the diseases 

 of puppyhood may be attributed to these parasites. I once had a whole 

 litter of whelps down with " yellows," and I had them killed and opened. 

 They were literally full of worms, although not six weeks old. Since then 

 I have physicked the brood bitches twice a year,, and the whelps (if it 

 appeared necessary) once a week for a month when six weeks old. A little 

 areca-nut and santonine mixed with jalap and a little opium, and given on 

 an empty stomach first thing in the morning, is all that is required. Feed 

 as usual one hour and a half after. The physic has no ill effects at all on 

 the whelps. It is best, therefore, in procuring brood bitches to know their 

 antecedents. If possible have them in your own hands from the time they 

 are whelps, and keep them specially for the purpose. Of course, putting 

 them by is very risky. The litter may not be a success as a running lot, and 

 constantly the bitch comes in season wrong, and is useless for years. Never 

 breed from a bitch that has had mange badly, as her whelps will always be 

 subject to heat of blood. 



In choosing the brood bitch always carefully examine her dam's pedigree. 

 It is most important the dams of both father and mother should be nailers, 

 and this is a great help to success. So many exemplifications of the above 

 fact are to be seen in the best running blood of the present day. Look at 

 the Gallant Foe blood reproduced in Fullerton ; the Annie Macpherson blood, 

 the Terrific and Hush; Stargazing II. in Herschel ; the Kuby and Lady 

 Lizzie, and many more that could be mentioned. 



With regard to the rearing of whelps, however, this fact must always be 

 before the breeder, that his whelps must never stand still. The best of food 



