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must be given, and that often. Directly the bitch has pupped down a dos© 

 of castor oil should be given her. I generally give two tablespoonfuls of 

 warm oil directly the first puppy makes its appearance, and invariably find 

 it assists the bitch, also thoroughly cleanses her. After two days on slops, 

 which must be judiciously regulated — viz., if a small litter, and the bitch 

 has much milk, little liquid food should be given ; if the reverse, give as- 

 much milk and broth as she will take— feed the bitch three times a day 

 plentifully, bread and milk morning and evening, and a good dinner of meal, 

 meat, and broth at midday. Fed thus a good-sized bitch will rear seven 

 whelps with ease, but would of course manage a smaller number better. At 

 three weeks old whelps will generally begin to lap warm milk from a saucer. 

 Let them take a little (sweetened with sugar) twice a day at first, and in- 

 crease to four times a day, when, if they feed readily, begin to thicken the 

 milk with flour, and feed five times a day, taking away the bitch from early 

 morning until evening. Begin weaning at about four weeks old, and take 

 the bitch away altogether at six weeks. In this way the whelps do not miss 

 their mother or fall away, losing the puppy fat which it takes months to 

 recover. I am certain that during this period the size and strength of the 

 greyhound is to a great extent made or marred. 



Directly you have weaned your whelps put them into the largest and 

 airiest kennel you have, taking care not to put them too thick— in fact, the 

 fewer together the better. They should have a nice warm nest to lie in, with 

 fresh straw every day, if necessary twice a day, and be kept rigidly clean ; 

 here let them remain until at least ten or twelve weeks old. The least 

 change in the weather, if let out, affects them, and they pick up every bit 

 of filth it is possible to get at, which quickly upsets their stomachs. They 

 will take all the exercise that is necessary if given room enough, and will 

 play nearly all day long together. Of course if late whelps they can go out 

 sooner in the summer weather. Feed at least five times a day. At seven 

 o'clock give milk straight from the cow, nine o'clock bread and milk and 

 water, at twelve o'clock oatmeal porridge and good broth (and after four 

 weeks old with sheep's head in it minced or torn up very small indeed), at 

 4 p.m. milk, and at 7.30 oatmeal porridge and broth, taking care to leave 

 enough by them at night, so that they can have a light feed directly they 

 begin to play in the early morning. Little and often prevents pot-bellied 

 whelps, indigestion, hiccoughing, etc. When three months old the whelps 

 can go into a field or yard twice a day for an hour each time, and let their 

 feeding be knocked down to four times a day. Increase the exercise as they 

 grow older, and when four months old feed three times a day — bread and 

 milk morning and evening, meat, porridge, and good broth midday. I almost 

 think that whelps do best when they have milk once a day and broth twice, 

 but where cows are kept it makes a considerable difference as to cost. 



Many people hold that greyhounds should have their entire liberty, but if 

 you wish to bring saplings to perfection and to extend themselves this is 

 quite a mistake. They grow crooked on their legs if left to lay about the 

 cold, wet ground, and they never have the size and development as when 

 kept in kennel part of the day. If a puppy is born crooked on his legs, then 

 I should send him to walk, as he gets a lot of slow exercise, which keeps his 

 body light, and he lies about instead of galloping, as puppies reared in the 

 way mentioned always do. Young greyhounds should always be made to 



