FOREWORD XI 



Navy. Dr. Edmondson, the junior author, participated in wave 

 investigations carried out at the American Museum of Natural History 

 in New York City and at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution 

 between the years 1942-45. 



This book not only incorporates much of the published findings of 

 recent date but also includes part of the unpublished work carried out 

 under various wartime Navy contracts with the Woods Hole Oceano- 

 graphic Institution, the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, and the 

 Department of Mechanical Engineering of the University of Cali- 

 fornia at Berkeley, as well as studies conducted by the Beach Erosion 

 Board of the Army Engineers. 



Wind Waves at Sea, Breakers and Surf is a detailed and non- 

 technical discussion of the subject based on the researches of eminent 

 scientists and on the observations of thousands of seafaring men 

 throughout the past century. The mariner will find in this volume 

 much of value that will assist him in the safe and economical operation 

 of vessels on the high seas, in restricted waters, and in the surf zone. 



R. O. Glover, 



Rear' Admiral, U. S. Navy, 

 H ydrographer. 



