VIII ILLUSTRATIONS 



Figvre Page 



39. Five or six lines of breakers with breaking waves farther offshore 141 



40. Low breakers over neighboring shoals, and same locality at low tide.. 143 



41. Heavy breakers off Adak, Aleutians 144 



42. Aerial photograph of a rip current 146 



43. Smooth sea in an ice field 148 



44. Breaker developing against an offshore wind 152 



45. Refraction of waves around headland and islet into a bay 156 



46. Diagram illustrating the refraction of waves along a straight shore 



line 158 



47. Diagram of waves advancing from two directions onto a short, rounded 



beach 161 



48. Chart of St. Mary Bay, Nova Scotia 163 



49. Surf around a low-lying projection of the Hawaiian coast 164 



50. Surf dashing against headland at the entrance to Havana Harbor 164 



51. Diagram illustrating the refraction of waves around an abrupt corner 



of t he coast 166 



52. Sketch map of Duluth Harbor 168 



53. Diagram illustrating the refraction of waves around a circular island. _ 169 



54. Chart of No Man's Land, Massachusetts 171 



55. Chart of St. Pierre Island, off the south coast of Newfoundland 172 



56. Chart of Nukuoro Atoll, Caroline Group 174 



57. Chart of Arno Atoll, Marshall Group 175 



