VI TABLES 



Table Page 



31. Alterations in wave height over a shoaling bottom 108 



32. Breaker heights, and depths at which breaking occurs for waves of 



different dimensions 121 



33. Ratio of breaker height to offshore height for waves of different degrees 



of steepness 121 



34. Frequencies of breakers higher than 5 and 10 feet along the east coast 



of the United States 151 



35. Angles of breakers with the beach for waves of different degrees of 



steepness approaching at different angles 157 



36. Alteration of the angle between wave crest and shore line in shoaling 



water 157 



37. Decrease in wave height due to refraction over a shoaling bottom 159 



