TABLES 



Table Pago 



1. Mass transport in waves of different dimensions 6 



2. Relative diameters of orbital motion with increasing depth 10 



3. Maximum heights of waves with winds of different strengths 17 



4. Heights of waves with winds of different strengths and durations 18 



5. Heights of waves with winds of different strengths blowing over dif- 



ferent fetches 18 



6. Minimum, maximum, and average wave heights for the Trade Wind 



Belts 18 



7. Fetches and durations required lo produce waves 75 percent of maxi- 



mum height with different winds 20 



8. Frequency of waves of different heights in different regions 21 



9. Frequency of waves of different heights at South Beach, Martha's 



Vineyard 22 



10. Average lengths of waves according to the strength of the wind 27 



11. Lengths of storm waves observed in different oceans 28 



12. Average steepness of waves for winds of different strengths and 



durations 20 



13. Maximum, minimum, and mean steepness of waves of different heights. 30 



14. Correlation between age and steepness of growing waves . 31 



15. Theoretical wave periods and velocities in relation to the strength and 



duration of the wind 32 



16. Theoretical velocities and lengths for waves of different periods 35 



17. Lengths and periods of waves computed from observed periods and 



lengths in different parts of the oceans 36 



18. Ratios between the dimensions of waves in still water and in currents. 53 



19. Distribution of low, medium, and high seas in different latitudinal 



belts of the North Atlantic in August . 73 



20. Frequencies of high swells on the American and European sides of the 



North Atlantic in January and February .. 80 



21. Frequencies of low and high seas and swells on the American and 



African sides of the South Atlantic in July and August __ 82 



22. Frequencies of low and high seas and swells on the American and 



African sides of the South Atlantic in January and February 82 



23. Frequency of no swell in the Japan and South China seas in summer 



and winter 90 



24. Frequencies of high seas and swells off the west coast of South America. 91 



25. Frequencies of low and high seas and swells in the Arabian Sea and 



Bay of Bengal in winter and summer 95 



26. Frequencies of low and high seas and swells along the Equatorial Belt 



and Southeast Trades Belt of the South Indian Ocean in winter 



and summer 98 



27. Pressures of breakers on the west coast of Scotland 101 



28. Pressures of waves at St. Augustine, Florida and Duluth Canal, Lake 



Superior 101 



29. Decrease in wave lengths and velocities over a shoaling bottom 104 



30. Frequencies of waves of different periods at South Beach, Martha's 



Vineyard " 106 



v 



