IV CONTENTS 



Chapter 6. Breakers and Surf — Continued Page 



The Characteristics of Breakers 1 10 



Waves of Translation 115 



Chapter 7. The Character of Surf Under Different Conditions.- 119 



The Height of Surf 119 



Depth of Water in which Surf Develops 126 



The Stage of the Tide as It Affects the Surf 132 



Distance of the first Line of Breakers out from the Shore; Effects of 



Bars; Number of Lines of Breakers 133 



Factors that Hinder the Development of Surf or that Tend to Interrupt 



It 145 



Ledges, Shoals, and Islands 145 



Tidal Currents 145 



Rip Currents 146 



Hail and Ice 147 



Marsh Grasses and Seaweeds 147 



Oil 149 



The Persistence of Surf and Its Relationship to the Wind 150 



Chapter 8. Direction and Height of Breakers in Relation to the 



Shape of the Coast 155 



The Refraction of Waves 155 



The Loss of Wave Height by Refraction 157 



Surf around the Shores of Bays 159 



Surf around Headlands 163 



Surf around Islands 168 



Submarine Troughs and Ridges as Affecting Surf 175 



Forecasting Breakers and Surf . 176 



Selected References ---.. -- 177 



