CONTENTS 



Page 



Foreword xi 



Preface xm 



Chapter 1. The Physical Nature of Wind Waves 1 



The Growth and Decay of Waves 6 



The Depth of Wave Action 9 



Hurricane or "Tidal" Waves 12 



Chapter 2. The Dimensions of Waves 15 



The Heights of Waves 15 



The Average Heights of Waves 21 



The Maximum Heights of Storm Waves 23 



Single High Waves and Groups of High Waves 25 



The Lengths of Waves 26 



The Steepness of Waves 28 



The Velocities and Periods of Waves 31 



The Directions in Which Wind Waves Advance 37 



Chapter 3. The Contours of Waves; the Effects of Currents 



and of Shoal Water; the Measurement of Waves 43 



The Profiles and Surface Contours of Waves 43 



The Effects of Currents on the Dimensions of Waves 51 



Alterations in the Dimensions of Waves Over a Shoaling Bottom... 56 



The Sizes of Waves That Are Developed in Shallow Water 58 



Methods of Measuring Waves 60 



Chapter 4. Seas and Swells 63 



Alteration of Seas Into Swells 63 



The Directions of Swells 67 



The Persistence of Swells 69 



Forecasting Sea and Swell 70 



Chapter 5. The Frequency of High and Low Seas and Swells in 



Different Regions 71 



North Atlantic 72 



Summer 72 



Winter 77 



South Atlantic 80 



North Pacific 82 



Summer 82 



Winter 86 



South Pacific 90 



North Indian Ocean 93 



Summer 93 



Winter 95 



South Indian Ocean 96 



Chapter 6. Breakers and Surf; Their Importance and Origin 99 



The Importance of Surf 99 



The Causes of Surf 102 



Alterations in Length and in Velocity Over a Shoaling Bottom 103 



Alterations in Height Over a Shoaling Bottom 106 



Alterations in Steepness 109 



Alterations in the Orbital Velocities of the Water Particles 109 



in 



