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omit to put on record in this argument that, in practice, 

 there have always been the two kinds of dyeing, viz., per- 

 manent and fugitive and that each has its use. 



No one can read an old French work on dyeing without 

 constantly meeting with the phrases bon teint (fast 

 dye) and petit teint (fugitive dye). They were always 

 produced to order by any dyer, but for different purposes. 

 In the East, too, where for thousands of years the best 

 dyeing has been done, has the same practice prevailed, and 

 the fugitive dyes have been used, but, it is true, to a more 

 limited extent than the permanent ones. 



Having been engaged for some years in the examination 

 of both the dyed fabrics and the dyestuffs of India, I can 

 truly state that several of the dyestuffs of vegetable origin 

 are extremely fugitive ; yet they have long been and are 

 still used there. 



There are many purposes for which the cheaper and more 

 speedily applied fugitive dyes may be used, and will always 

 be used so long as they are more economical in either saving 

 money or time, as, for example, all fabrics which are not 

 designed or intended to last long or to wear long or to be 

 exposed to sunlight. 



I may mention two of the most useful dyes, without 

 which dyers all over the world would find it difficult to 

 match the patterns of their clients, neither of which are of 

 aniline origin. I allude to turmeric, an Indian dye, (the 

 root of Curcuma longa,) and the sulphate of indigo. 

 The first I have been surprised to find to be the dye of 

 the brilliant yellows of some of the garments of India and 

 Kashgar, and it is even more fugitive than many of the 

 aniline dyes to both light and chemical re-agents. Sul- 

 phate of indigo, whilst being fairly fast to light, disappears 

 with washing, and should never be used for any fabric that 

 has to be afterwards wetted or soaped. 



But whilst having written so much for the aniline side 

 of the question, I must not be supposed to waver in my 

 allegiance to bon teint, and I unhesitatingly say that 

 modern dyeing and printing is in a very discreditable and 

 unsatisfactory condition, and the fugitive dyes are mainly 

 used for purposes where a more rigid conscientiousness on 

 the part of the manufacturers would never permit their 

 use. It is no fault of the dyer; he provides either petit 

 t<inl or bon teint, at the desire of his customer the 

 fabricant, perhaps not to order always, but certainly to 

 price, and often very low price ; and inasmuch as petit temt 

 is cheaper and more quickly applied, materials are dyed 



