OUR FIRST CALLING-PLACE. 91 



through it difficult. This, however, is very useful in one 

 way here, as we found. Wanting more supplies, which 

 were to be had cheap, we lowered a couple of boats, and 

 went ashore after them. On approaching the black, 

 pebbly beach which formed the only landing-place, it 

 appeared as if getting ashore would be a task of no 

 ordinary danger and difficulty. The swell seemed to 

 culminate as we neared the beach, lifting the boats at 

 one moment high in air, and at the next lowering them 

 into a green valley, from whence nothing could be seen 

 but the surrounding watery summits. Suddenly we 

 entered the belt of kelp, which extended for perhaps a 

 quarter of a mile seaward, and, lo ! a transformation 

 indeed. Those loose, waving fronds of flexible weed, 

 though swayed hither and thither by every ripple, were 

 able to arrest the devastating rush of the gigantic swell, 

 so that the task of landing, which had looked so terrible, 

 was one of the easiest. Once in among the kelp, although 

 we could hardly use the oars, the water was quite smooth 

 and tranquil. The islanders collected on the beach, and 

 guided us to the best spot for landing, the huge boulders, 

 heaped in many places, being ugly impediments to a 

 boat. 



We were as warmly welcomed as if we had been old 

 friends, and hospitable attentions were showered upon 

 us from every side. The people were noticeably well- 

 behaved, and, although there was something Crusoe-like 

 in their way of living, their manners and conversation 

 were distinctly good. A rude plenty was evident, there 

 being no lack of good food — fish, fowl, and vegetables. 

 The grassy plateau on which the village stands is a sort 

 of shelf jutting out from the mountain-side, the moun- 

 tain being really the whole island. Steep roads were 



