ORNITHOLOGIST 

gregate thickness of the space between the leg 
See fig. 1. 
A—B, blocks; C, head wires. Supposing our 
subject to be a bear. We next fill the skull, 
moulding it with clay as near as possible to na- 
ture; then making a hole in the top (center of 
forehead) large enough for the wire. (Large ani- 
mals may require rods, heavier than wire.) We 
force into its place in the skin. Next fill the 
upper part of the neck fairly full of cut excelsior. 
Put in leg wires in manner previously described, 
winding the wire and bones carefully with tow 
and excelsior, to imitate the original legs. Now 
take the board and force the head wire up the 
neck through the skull and skin; cut a hole in 
the skin exactly over the hole in the skull. Be 
careful about it as it will act as a guide. (Some 
merely fasten the wire to the skull and then force 
the skull and board in at the same.) Next pass 
the leg wires through the proper holes, at right 
angles to the board; bend them and fasten by 
staples as shown in fig. 3. If the animal is short- 
tailed, pass wire in and fasten to board; if long- 
tailed, cover tail wire with tow, (use glue) build- 
ing it to the size of the stump that was removed. 
Force it into the skin and fasten to board; use 
bones in the original body. 
care to have the length correct. 
Our body is now completely wired. Make two 
pads to fill the space D, between the fore and 
hind legs—shape of section 5—and dotted lines. 
duild them firmly of excelsior, winding with fine 
wire. Give a coat of glue and place pads in posi- 
tion; bind them down with wire in same way ; 
pad the board in other places till it is about the 
natural size. You can now complete the shaping 
with fine cut excelsior, tow.and clay, as the case 
may require. (Some French writers thin 
plaster casts, taken from the body, to complete 
the finish.) A point is here reached where skill 
use 

The whole can be given a 
can be displayed. 
coat of clay, but I think in ordinary cases it 
would be a waste of time, except in special places 
as already referred to. All being ready, bend 
legs into position and sew up skin. For heavy 
work a hand guard of leather is required. Any 
saddle maker can give advice in regard to its con- 
struction. Place the specimen on base board and 
bend it into shape—the desired attitude. See 
that every bump and depression is exact. If 
more filling is required, cut open the skin and in- 
sert it; if too full, depress it or take out filling. 
The head will be the last act. Carefully adjust 
the nose, lips and eyelids, using putty or clay and 
cotton. Putty I think works best for this last, 
but have it free from oil. Set the eyes in putty. 
Adjust ears as described in last chapter. If the 
mouth is to be left open, the tongue should be 
skinned and stuffed, or one be made of clay or 
papier maché. It and the lips, gums, ete., can be 
covered with the following: Heat common 
beeswax with enough powdered resin to make it 
hard. Apply when warm. This can afterwards 
be colored. (Combs and wattles of fowls can be 
treated in the same manner.) If there is a ten- 
dency of the skin to sag, it can be held in place 
by the use of bandages. An English writer sug- 
gests cutting out pieces or sewing it in; but the 
principle is wrong. Fig. 6 will show the position 
of the board and wires in the skin. 
If the subject has horns, so as to make the head 
heavy, both wires should pass out through the 
skull at two points and a wood brace should be 
used, which can be fastened to the body board 
by an iron strap and screw. See fig. 4. The 
neck wires passing on each, care must be used to 
have the brace of the right length and angle; a 
wire band should pass around the brace and neck 
wires. The fastening, etc., can be made through 
the opening in the neck, 
