64 TOUR IN SCOTLAND. [Mavch, 



A moralist would say^ " the reality is always exceeded by the 

 anticipation." Perhaps so. Most people can testify from expe- 

 rience that their real enjoyment of a scene is often much less than 

 their anticipations were. It is not our wish to run a muck against 

 his Grace of Athol^ but we think it is a shabby thing to shut up 

 Craigie Barnes, Birnam Wood, etc. ; yet it is defensible on the 

 principle pleaded long ago by another duke, " Is it not lawful for 

 me to do what I will with mine own T' 



We walked about Dunkeld for an hour or two, and then went 

 to rest ; and if we were disappointed on finding every place in 

 and about this ancient city shut against us, except the high-roads, 

 the shops, and hotels, we were not disappointed in the enjoyment 

 of a good night's rest. This we needed after a long walk, and 

 with another walk not very short awaiting us. 



The most remarkable buildings about Dunkeld are the hotels ; 

 these are not notable for anything striking in their architecture, 

 but merely for their immense size. It may be said the hotel at 

 Paddington, at the terminals of the Great Western Railway, is as 

 large as either of the Dunkeld establishments. Perhaps it may be 

 so ; but the inhabitants of London are between two millions and 

 three millions : those of Dunkeld only a few hundreds. The Duke's 

 residence is very small ; and possibly his Grace, who has the re- 

 putation of an economist, has caused ample provision to be made 

 in the town for those who might expect an entree into the ducal 

 mansion in the park. 



On the 23rd, we were on the bridge of Dunkeld at five by the 

 cathedral clock, intending to walk to Perth to breakfast. This 

 we accomplished without distressing ourselves. The Dunkeld 

 end of the road is interesting enough, especially the celebrated 

 pass between Birnam Hill on the right bank of the Tay, and the 

 elevation near Caputh, on the other or left bank. Birnam Wood 

 is said by Dr. Macculloch to be stiU suffering from the effects of 

 its march to Dunsinane in the days of Macbeth, but we think it 

 has recovered some of its leafy attractions since the doctor's day. 



With the exception of the first three miles from Dunkeld, there 

 is nothing in the scenery of the remaining fifteen miles to repay 

 a pedestrian for the tear and wear of shoes, muscular exertion, 

 and time. As lovers of the picturesque we would have preferred 

 the north side of the river, but we were told there was no road, 

 and we had not time to improvise a new track for ourselves. 



