1858.] GLENS CANLOCHEN AND DOLE. 587 



beyond Craig Maid the valley forks into two, the ravine to the 

 left being that so well known to botanists as that of the White 

 Water, that to the right the Dole proper. A bold, rocky crag 

 rises between these two ravines, looking like a giant guardian of 

 the glen, and upon this the setting sun streamed with crimson 

 splendour, causing the adjacent precipices to look far grander by 

 the contrast of light and shade than they really were, and as 

 they appeared in the sober light of the following morning. 

 About a mile below Craig Maid, the Dole is joined by the Phee 

 on the right, and Glen Phee gradually opens upon the view as 

 we round Craig Rennet, which stands at the angle of the two 

 glens, looking both ways. Another long mile, and we found 

 ourselves at the uppermost farm of Clova, Acharne, close to 

 which the Dole discharges its waters into the Esk, which comes 

 down from the north. Here we exchange the uncertain sheep- 

 track for a good car-road, nor are we sorry, for the night is 

 fast closing in, and we have three more weary miles to tread 

 before we reach Clova, This last piece of road is very unin- 

 teresting, and in every respect a great bore, for you feel you 

 are getting further and further away, at every step, from the 

 ground which you wish to explore ; indeed, if accommodation 

 could be procured at Acharne or Bradooney, which we were 

 not bold enough to ask for, it would be a great saving of time 

 and fatigue. These Clova sheep-farmers are by no means un- 

 important personages ; indeed, the on-dit of the valley reports 

 the owner of Bradooney to be worth something like £50,000, 

 though the house in which he lives is the most unpretending, 

 English-looking farmhouse in the world. At last we found 

 ourselves at the hamlet of Clova, and bent our steps to the little 

 inn, longing for rest and refreshment, for we had been inces- 

 santly on the move for thirteen hours, and had partaken of 

 nothing beyond a sandwich since eight in the morning. To our 

 dismay we found that all the beds had been bespoken just before 

 our arrival by a party who had come up the valley in the oppo- 

 site direction, and as for provisions, we find the whole village 

 can produce nothing beyond poached eggs and bacon, so we 

 must needs content ourselves with that, though we rather dread 

 the consequences for the following day of partaking of such 

 thirst-inspiring edibles. Grievously did we mourn that we had 

 not sought for a night's rest at Acharne, and so saved ourselves 



