36 THE SECRET OF SAHARA: KUFARA 



to gracious hospitality, but Sa5'ed Rida's generosity was 

 overwhelming. I have travelled in half the countries 

 of the world; I have been the guest of mandarin and 

 boundary rider, or rajah, Fijian ras and North- West 

 Mounted Police and of every intermediate race and grade, 

 but I have never received such generous, unquestioning 

 welcome as in Beduin countries. Some of the happiest 

 weeks of my life were spent in Syria as the guest of a 

 great Arab prince. I used to think that nothing could 

 match his kindness, but here in Jedabia I found its 

 equal in another descendant of the Prophet, a Sherif 

 of Islam. 



We asked Sayed Rida if we could send him ami;hing 

 from Cairo, our thoughts running to a jewel or a gold 

 inlaid rifle. He asked for a green parrot and some 

 gramophone records ■s\'ith a smile as delightful as his 

 brother's. 



"You see," he said, "my life is rather lonely. It 

 is not wise that I go out or that I show myself very much 

 to our people. Our family is holy and we must live a 

 secluded life. We may not see dancing or hear singing. 

 Our people would not understand, but sometimes when 

 I am alone late at night I play the gramophone, for I love 

 music very much." A curiously sweet smile illumined 

 his kindly face and he beat time to an imaginary tune 

 with a jewelled finger. "I do not like much noise," he 

 said. "I like the sad, soft melodies best. I think all 

 music should be melancholy." 



For a moment he was a child thinking wistfully of 

 a toy and then, as Ali entered bent double with respect 

 over his tray of tea, the Sayed resumed the grave 

 dignity in keeping ^Wth his gorgeous clothes — a purple 

 embroidered jelabia under an apple-gi'een silk jubba 

 with a wonderful crimson and blue kufiya stiff with gold 

 thread and having great tassels of gold. 



