TRIUMPHANT ARRIVAL AT JALO 89 



doorwaj'-s and unfinished walls; but it is exceedingly 

 picturesque seen against a red setting sun. 



We camped just before four in a hollow beyond the 

 last fence made of plaited palm leaves. We were so 

 hungry that we could hardly wait to put up our tent. 

 Visions of milk and eggs and fresh crisp "hubz" danced 

 before our eyes. We sent the fat Yusuf to inquire. 

 Meanwhile, Omar had departed to his home in the town, 

 to return a little later with a basket of fine dates. It was 

 a resplendent being who found us flat on our camp beds, 

 too tired to care any more about food. We had discovered 

 a small stick of chocolate in a knapsack. Hassanein 

 wanted me to eat the whole of it, but the desert teaches 

 only two laws. The European code of morals disappears 

 altogether. One becomes a simple savage being who may 

 commit most crimes with impunity. In opposition, how- 

 ever, one gradually realises that two or three actions, 

 considered natural and justifiable in London, are unfor- 

 givable sins in the Sahara. The laws all true wanderers 

 obey are these: "Thou shalt not eat nor drink more than 

 thy share," "Thou shalt not lie about the places thou 

 hast visited or the distances thou hast traversed." 



Omar had changed his dirty, torn white chemise, with 

 his ragged jerd, for a blue, braided jubba and a new 

 striped jerd. We thanked him earnestly for the dates 

 and listened indifferently to the stern fact that absolutely 

 nothing could be bought in Aujela. Doubtless, as we 

 were the Sayed's guests, he said, the important people 

 of the town would send us gifts of food on the morrow, 

 but for the moment, short of begging, nothing could 

 be done. It was beneath our dignity as important 

 Egyptians travelling on the Sayed's business to explain 

 the state of our commissariat, so we made up our minds 

 to a supper of milk tablets and dates. At the last 

 moment, however, one of our guardian angels, Musa 



