106 THE SECRET OF SAHARA; KUFARA 



raiment made and was only comforted by hearing that 

 the prices were much cheaper in Kufara. The dark 

 Abdullah would not move an inch without being satisfied 

 that the caravan carried sufficient water. The full army 

 allowance for washing, cooking and drinking is a gallon 

 per day per man. There were seventeen people in our 

 party, so for seven days we should have had to carry 

 133 gallons. The largest girbas hold seven gallons, and 

 a camel carries four of them. Therefore, five loads 

 would have had to be devoted to water only. This was 

 impossible, as we had also to carry dates for our animals 

 at an allowance of one sack per head per day, and we 

 had only eight camels. 



Every moment that was not devoted to the considera- 

 tion of these practical details or to settling the grievances 

 of the men — Yusuf had several new ones each day, and 

 even Hassanein was aggrieved because the solemn tailor 

 did not finish his new white chemise and trousers in 

 time — we spent in the delightful practice of "fadhhng." 

 It is not an easy thing to gain information among the 

 Senussi. The simplest question generates suspicion. A 

 remark about the price of cotton stuff or the position 

 of a well arouses the darkest forebodings. The sight of 

 pencil and note-book seals their lips. One needs infinite 

 patience and understanding before one can penetrate 

 their reserve. They are a silent race with rare bursts of 

 loquaciousness. At an Arab gathering it is not necessary 

 to talk. After the oft-repeated "Keif halak" and 

 *'Taiyib," the men sit gravely silent, staring into space 

 and sipping their strong green tea. The desert breeds 

 reserve. If a man travels alone for many days or weeks 

 without sight of a human being, without exchanging a 

 word, he learns to commune with himself and his god, 

 and he shuts his heart away in a sealed chamber. 



The Senussi are particularly difficult of approach, as 



