TRIUMPHANT ARRIVAL AT JALO 109 



in Benghazi. Southbound caravans took needles, soap, 

 scent, sandal, cotton stuiFs, sugar and tea. They returned 

 with ivorj^ feathers and smuggled slave boys and girls 

 of eight to ten years. Some of these latter were adorable 

 — solemn little beings, with chubby black faces peering 

 out of the pointed hood of minute camel's-hair burnuses. 

 They were sent by their masters to bring us gifts of eggs 

 and milk and they regarded us with aloof scorn till we 

 propitiated them with handfuls of dates. 



The friendly circles discussed every Sahara route, 

 marked or unmarked, upon the maps. We learned the 

 position of every well and the taste of the water therein. 

 We also learned that in winter a camel may actually go 

 fifteen days without water, if lightly loaded and carefully 

 driven. Therefore, SiM^a, Jaghabub and Farafra are all 

 possible outlets from Kufara, though a single mistake or 

 mishap means destruction. As the hours lengthened 

 and the coffee grew sweeter, we passed from business to 

 politics. The eyes of all were turned to Egj-pt's struggle 

 for freedom as an earnest of the future of Libya. To my 

 surprise, Britain was regarded with respect and affection. 

 The destruction of the Senussi zawias in Egj'pt was put 

 down to the result of Sayed Ahmed'5 mistaken policy. 

 Apparently the whole country had realised Britain's 

 disinterestedness with regard to Libya and, therefore, 

 had entered but half-heartedly into the projects of Man- 

 nismann and Nouri. Sayed Ahmed is regarded with 

 respect and reverence as a devout Moslem, but his politics 

 are regretted. Sayed Idris is looked upon as the saviour 

 of his country. He came forward at a moment when 

 the Senussi saw a prospect of the whole land slipping into 

 European hands. By his tactful policy he preserved the 

 power of his people, who respect him for his friendship 

 with Britain and for his intelligent and amicable attitude 

 towards Italy. They look to him to preserve Libya for 



