116 THE SECRET OF SAHARA: KUFARA 



before the walls of Jalo had disappeared the wind 

 strengthened into the worst gibli I have ever encountered. 

 It was behind us, for we were heading south-east, yet 

 the camels staggered and swung round, huddling against 

 each other for shelter. I was nearly swept off the back 

 of my blond beast. Every loose mat and blanket flapped 

 in wide circles and loads began to sway dangerously. 

 On all sides palms were bending and cracking in the 

 sudden gale, while great leaves were torn off and whirled 

 w^histling above our heads. The air became a thick sheet 

 of sand. Sun and direction were blotted out. Screaming 

 gusts stung our faces and blinded us. It was the most 

 extraordinary sight, for one minute camels and figures 

 would be blotted out in a whirling white fog; then a 

 head or a wildly gja-ating blanket or a portion of a 

 labouring camel would appear for an instant through the 

 shroud and vanish again in the smarting dusk. We 

 stumbled and choked and fell through the storm till even 

 Abdullah saw it w^as useless. In an instant's lull a palm 

 tree fence appeared to our left, with a small boy crouch- 

 ing beside a garden plot of onions, radishes and pumpkins. 

 We turned our camels towards the low shelter and they 

 sank heavily to their knees beside a clump of the grey, 

 nameless trees. The boy gave our guide some radishes 

 as he passed, and in spite of the agony of flying sand 

 the Beduin turned to me with a smile. "It is a blessed 

 journey," he said. "Look at the green which has been 

 given us!" It is proof of how far one had wandered 

 from the mentality of London and Paris that his words 

 gave me great comfort. 



I gathered the thickest blanket round me and dug 

 myself into the sand, while a hail of dust and grit beat 

 upon me. Through a narrow slit I saw the blacks, with 

 kufiyas tied across their mouths and noses, staggering 

 about with sacks and boxes. They appeared like phan- 



