THE LAKE IN THE DESERT 161 



of an hour, probably about 100 metres. Our camp level 

 in the wadi was just under 380 metres. The view was 

 marvellous. The whole oasis spread below us, with the 

 great gap in the cliffs through which we had come two 

 days before and beyond, on every side, were the waving 

 lines of creamy dunes, growing steeper as we looked south 

 to Ribiana or south-east to Kufara. Two spots of black 

 broke the monotony of pale curves — outlying blocks of 

 the Buseima Gara. 



On our way back we explored a good many ruined 

 Tebu houses scattered here and there on the rough salt 

 waste between our camp and the cliffs. The walls were 

 still in good condition and the houses were larger than 

 on the farther side of the lake. The biggest round bee- 

 hive room measured 8 feet 6 inches in diameter. I left 

 Hassanein to tell the retinue that we would start the 

 next morning and to listen to their elaborate plans for 

 defence upon the way, while I went with Abdullah to visit 

 his relations in the neighbouring village. tB^is sister lived 

 in a low hut made of palm branches and a little square 

 court in front, with a wall of the same waving leaves. 

 There was nothing inside the one room except some mats 

 of plaited fronds, a few woven grass bowls full of dates', 

 a couple of yellow gourds, a kid-skin of water, and some 

 rather doubtful blankets. The whole hfe of these people 

 depends on the palm. Their houses, mats, bowls, food, 

 drink, baskets, string, shoes, stuffing for camel-saddles, 

 all come from it. 



Several women gathered round me in the cool dark- 

 ness. Most of them were pretty, with pale olive faces 

 and pointed chins. The dark eyes of a Latin race looked 

 out between heavy, black-fringed lashes, their features 

 were finely cut and they had the most beautiful pearly 

 teeth I have ever seen. They told me it was the effect 

 of dates and the thing that most interested them in me 



