FEASTS IN THE HOLY PLACE 191 



the African mind retaliated on European curiosity. By 

 every map the oasis is a solid flat block of green just 

 beyond the Gara of Hawari and we had already walked 

 35 kilometres at least beyond that imposing cliff and 

 apparently could see half as far again in front with not 

 a sign of a palm. "Look! The sand begins again on 

 the horizon," I said. "It is much paler and there are 

 more hills." "If Kufara is beyond those, I shall give 

 up and send home for an aeroplane," answered my 

 companion firmly. 



Thereafter we covered our faces in our jerds and 

 struggled on blindly, so that the Sahara gave us her 

 secret suddenly and when we saw one of the most 

 wonderful views in the world spread almost at our feet, 

 we first blinked and rubbed our eyes to see if we were 

 asleep and then cursed ourselves as fools for not having 

 guessed that the explanation of the mystery was — a wadi ! 



For this reason one almost falls over the edge of the 

 last black cliff into the soft pale sand of the oasis before 

 one realises it is there. They say anticipation is better 

 than realisation. They say that success is tasteless and 

 that it is only the fight which thrills, but I am nol^ 

 ashamed to confess my excitement when a whole new 

 world seemed to be revealed to me. To the east where 

 the cliffs ran out a httle, the sacrosanct village of Taj 

 perched clear-cut against the sky, high above the oasis 

 it guarded. The massive block of the zawia rose above 

 the group of strong, dark houses, square, sohd, all built 

 of blocks of black stone with red sand mortar. The end- 

 less blind walls gave away no secrets, but here and there 

 within the courts rose the triple arched porches of some 

 big dwelling and already there were blotches of white 

 that told of watchers for our arrival. 



This is the holy place of the Senussi, where are the 

 houses of the Saveds and the blessed qubba of Sidi el- 



