242 THE SECRET OF SAHARA: KUFARA 



travelled that way for more than three years, the one well 

 at Zakar would not only be filled up, but probably covered 

 by a dune! As the water was very far away it might 

 take three days to dig down to it. Worst of all, we had 

 only seven camels. Four of these must carry water and 

 two fodder. This left only one for food for six persons, 

 their luggage and tents! 



We tried to hire Tebu camels at an exorbitant price, 

 but found that nobody would let their beasts go north 

 in mid-winter, for the camels have very thin coats in 

 Kufara and generally die when they reach a colder ch- 

 mate. I explained that there had been no difference in the 

 temperature of Aujela and Taj, but was told that the 

 Jaghabub route would be bitterly cold and the winds 

 almost intolerable. With this pleasant thought in mind 

 we suggested buying a couple of camels, but there was 

 none to be sold except the ancient Bazama beast, already 

 shivering. "He will die on the way," said Yusuf, hating 

 to make a bad bargain. "I don't mind if he does, pro- 

 viding he will last four or five days beyond the Zakar 

 well. We shall have drunk his load by then and shall 

 not need him any more," I said. "Do you think he 

 will break down before then?" Yusuf would not commit 

 himself. "One could see it in his eye if he meant to 

 die in two days," was all he vouchsafed. 



Our friend Mahmud el-Jeddawi bestirred himself 

 energetically on our account and, after searching most 

 of Jof, he triumphantly produced the most amazing 

 camel I have even seen. It looked as if a portion of it 

 had been left out in the making. We all walked round 

 it in mystified silence to discover what was missing. It 

 had the self-satisfied expression of a short, plump, curry- 

 loving Indian colonel and most certainly there was some- 

 thing odd about its shape. I looked at Yusuf appealingly. 

 "It is very woolly." "Yes, it has much wool," he 



