CHAPTER XIII 



THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS 



LOADING the camels on January 25 was some- 

 thing of a difficulty. The whole male population 

 of Hawari came out to help or to hinder, while 

 various shrouded female forms lurked in the shadows of 

 palm clumps hoping to exchange a few eggs for green 

 tea, but we had left our last stores at Kufara, so could 

 do no bartering. A young merchant from Wadai 

 offered us crimson-dyed leather at three and a half 

 mejidies for a whole goatskin. He would easily make 

 his fortune among London boot shops! That morning 

 was another revelation of Zouia character, for if we left 

 anything out of sight for a minute it disappeared. I 

 lost my pet woolly scarf which I used to roll round 

 underneath my thin cotton garments, my only protec- 

 tion against the north winds. Mohammed politely 

 spread his rug for two venerable ekhwan to sit upon. 

 A few moments later they and it vanished altogether. 

 Yusuf's bright-coloured blanket followed suit, with 

 Hassanein's sleeping-helmet. It is not to be wondered 

 at, therefore, that our farewells were somewhat chilly. 

 Amar was venomous because some thrifty housewife had 

 appropriated the grid on which he made his almost 

 uneatable bread. We shuddered to think what it would 

 be like without it ! 



By 8 A.M. we had received the last mixed blessings 

 and warnings, the chorus of "Marhabas" and "Ma 

 Salamas!" had died among the palms and an amazing 



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