148 EAMBLES AFTER SPORT. 



commanding the attendants to remove them. The 

 picture, if I remember rightly, was painted at Florence, 

 and is of recent date, though I forget the painter^s name. 

 With the exception of Dore^s ^^ Christ leaving the Praeto- 

 rium,^' I have seen no modern picture that has impressed 

 me so much. 



I should have liked to visit Pachacamac, one of the 

 old Inca towns, as well as other points of interest near 

 Lima, but the revolution that happened put a stop to 

 all this. When it broke out I was standing on the steps 

 of the cathedral, and almost before I had time to look 

 round the plaza was filled with troops, and in an instant 

 every shop was closed and barred ; it really was like 

 magic j the inhabitants are evidently well used to that 

 sort of thing. It is needless to give any description of 

 the horrors that went on in Callao and Lima during that 

 reign of terror ; suffice it to say that the revolufcionists 

 did everything they could to disgrace themselves, as 

 might be expected from such a set of wretches. The 

 Peruvians are the biggest cowards and the greatest 

 ruffians that ever disgraced humanity; the women are 

 the most vain, the most painted, and the most immoral 

 of any in the universe. " The inhabitants of Lima,^' 

 said Darwin in his " Yoyage,^^ ^' are of every imaginable 

 shade of colour, and have the most ruffianly faces I ever 

 beheld.-'^ The same description holds good to-day. I 

 never saw such a collection of ugly, bloodthirsty scamps 

 in my life; every fourth man might stand for a model 

 for Judas or Ananias. I left Lima with feelings of 

 the liveliest satisfaction, and I hope I shall never see 

 the detestable, blood-stained place again. 



I took passage on board the French steamer for 

 Panama ; I was the only Englishman on board, and my 



