from the toe to the heel. Let the hoof project over 

 and round the edge with a rasp, also bevel the shoe 

 well on the inside with a rasp from the foot to the 

 ground surface. Have these shoes made with calks 

 and run back about three-quarters of an inch longer 

 than the foot ; on the front feet put ordinary shoes, 

 weighing about the same as the hind shoes, and bevel 

 well on the inside from the foot to the ground sur- 

 face. Any pacer that crossfires will be very much im- 

 proved this way. Hal Pointer had to be shod like this. 

 Some pacers will need a little more weight in front and 

 less behind, and some go best with light toe weights. 



A great many horses that wear light shoes have to 

 be padded. To pad a horse right it is necessary for him 

 to wear bar shoes. For pads I prefer to use firm pli- 

 able leather, such material as is used in making horse 

 collars ; and I prefer to use sponges instead of oakum. 

 Take a fine quality of sponge just a little smaller than 

 the foot, cut the sponge from the point of the frog to 

 the heel of the foot so that the sponge will come down 

 on either side of the frog, in order not to get too much 

 frog pressure. Also lay a small piece of sponge in the 

 center of the frog under the bar of the shoe. It is very 

 important not to have too much sponge, as it will very 

 often force the leather below the level of the shoe, 

 particularly so on light shoes, which will make a horse 

 very sore in its feet. Before putting on the sponge 

 and pad apply Moore's hoof ointment liberally to the 

 sole of the feet. 



There are a great many kinds and varieties of rubber 

 pads now in use. I have found the most satisfactory 

 pads for winter, while driving on the snow, to be the 

 Mooney racing pads. These pads give plenty of 

 frog pressure and cause the foot to spread. For some 



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