8 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 



stances might seem to make desirable. I ventured to disregard 

 advice to take the Tana River route — involving a sea voyage, a 

 fresh organisation, and a journey through difficult and unhealthy 

 " fly "-infested bush all the way, with little useful help from 

 canoes (which could not take animals) against the stream — and 

 elected for the overland one through Northern Ukambani. 

 But I made the mistake of going round by Kibwezi on the 

 Uganda road, instead of following the more direct and con- 

 venient path used by Swahili traders and Wakamba visiting 

 the coast. At the little German mission station of Ikutha, 

 where one enters Ukambani, I passed the last outpost of 

 civilisation in this direction. I have reason to feel the 

 greatest gratitude to its hospitable head (Mr. Sauberlich) for 

 many kindnesses and ready assistance in various ways. 

 Shortly after leaving there I met Mr. Chanler returning to 

 the coast. I had already had the advantage of some talks 

 with Lieutenant Von Hohnel (previously Count Teleki's 

 companion) in Mombasa, who had been hurt by a rhinoceros 

 while travelling in his company, and from both these gentlemen 

 I received much useful information. I had long previously, 

 though, heard of Laiju and the Ndorobo country beyond from 

 Swahili traders as a good one for elephants, and resolved to 

 make that direction my aim, and as much farther as I could 

 attain. It had the special attraction for me that the country 

 that way was least known, and I was not likely to be hampered 

 by rival travellers, official or otherwise, there. Chanler gave 

 me a little half-bred terrier, named " Frolic," which proved a 

 charming little companion, and continued so until her sad 

 death on another expedition. 



There is nothing worth recording in the way of sport during 

 all this part of the journey. The uninhabited (principally 

 desert) country traversed previous to entering Ukambani has 

 but little game, though here and there an odd head may be 

 picked up, — a Coke's hartbeeste, impala or zebra, — and a few 

 guinea-fowl sometimes help the pot. 



